I noticed a pool of oil on the ground one day and traced it up the fork leg to the top of the dust seal. Uh oh... time for new seals. Leaky fork seals are a common problem on older SVs.
Solution - Installed new fork and dust seals. I went with All Balls because I had installed a set on my GS before and liked the quality of them. This is a pretty involved and messy procedure, but a good learning experience.
Parts - All Balls Fork and Dust Seal Kit (Direct online, Part #56-129, $27).
I was experiencing a lot of brake dive and soon found out that the front suspension was set overly soft from the factory, and generally considered a major weakness of the SV.
Solution - Upgraded to heavier 15w Fork Oil. Since I am relatively light-weight, I can get away with only this mod. Just doing this has made a big improvement. If you are a heavy rider, you could also install new springs, emulators, or even a whole GSX-R front end swap.
Parts - Maxima 15weight fork oil ($10, Local Cyclegear).
I had a leaky/weepy clutch cover. This is a common problem on 1st gen SVs because the covers were made of plastic and, therefore, prone to warpage.
Solution - Initially, I just installed a new o-ring, but it continued to leak. Then I tightened down the bolts a little pass spec, which actually made it leak more. I was about to pull the trigger on a Woodcraft cover for about $150, but further research revealed that the combination of a new o-ring, sanding down the warped cover on a flat glass window, and grinding down the bolt sleeves to be the remedy. *Update: I went ahead and just bought the Woodcraft cover as it started to leak again after a few months. No problems now.
Parts - New o-ring (Part #477696-001 from Bikebandit.com, $13.00). Sandpaper, 220 grit ($3.00). OR Woodcraft Billet Cover (Online, $150).
I could feel this annoying jerky stop/go motion while riding. It didn't matter how steady I held the throttle, in any speed/ rpm/ gear, it felt like someone flicking an on/off switch to the gas flow. Initially, I thought it was just dirty carbs, so I gave it a good cleaning, checked for vacuum leaks, checked the fuel filter and lines, & also synced the carbs, but yet it persisted. Then I found out this was the symptom of lean surge.
Solution - I rejetted the carbs with bigger Mikuni jets. Stock jets on the California model (E33) were 137.5 mains and 15 pilots. I upgraded with 150 mains and 17.5 pilots. This along with 2.5 turns out on the pilot screw, 2 shims under the carb needle, stock exhaust & a partially desnorkled stock air box, seem to work good so far. Correct jet sizes will depend on various mods such as exhaust, intake, cams/ altitude and such. There can be a lot of trial and error here to get it right.
Parts - Genuine Mikuni Jets, Part #s: Main [N102.221], Pilot [VM28/486], (Parts Unlimited Catalog from local dealer, $2.50/jet)
I was tired of getting blasted in the chest at prolonged highway speeds.
Solution - Install a windshield. I went with the F16 Tour because it's a good balance between size and looks, tall enough to actually make a difference and block wind, but not so big as to overpower the sportiness of the bike visually. Pretty much a direct bolt-on. Just need longer headlight mounting bolts to accommodate the extra thickness of the windshield and washers. I also made some reinforcement brackets out of aluminum strips I had laying around to further strengthen the whole thing. Because the bottom of the shield does not totally fit over the top of the headlight, there can be glare reflecting from headlight back to the inside of the screen. This is very noticeable at night. I just taped a piece of black rubber strip in between the gap to block the light from coming in.
Parts - National Cycles F16 Tour Shield. Light tint. (Craigslist, $30). Longer bolts (M6x20mm), flat metal and rubber washers. (Hardware store, $5).
Frame/Swingarm Sliders
Should that inevitable day come when I drop my bike, I want to minimize the damage. The frame sliders also double as highway pegs to stretch out on, and as lift points for working on the front end. Swingarm sliders double as rear stand spools.
Solution - Install frame and swingarm sliders. I went with Motosliders because they are highly recommended by the folks at SVR. Simple bolt-on job. Impact wrench and deep sockets help.
Parts - Motosliders frame and swingarm sliders. (10bomb.com, $100)
Exhaust
Problem - Big, heavy, boring stock exhaust.
Solution - Install new exhaust. Many options here, from Two Bros to Yosh, from full to slip-ons. I wanted a simple slip-on, and went with Delkevic because they are cheap, at only $150. Quality and fit are okay. Mine and some others on SVR have leaking from around the rivets, but nothing some sealant won't fix. Overall, it is a very good "bang-for-your-buck" exhaust. Looks good and sounds great, deep and throaty, like a proper V-twin should. Also removed PAIR system (CA only) to reduce popping. No further rejetting necessary.
Since I'll be doing more sport touring, I wanted something to protect the forks from debris possibly pitting the sliders. Later model SVs actually came with plastic fork guards to prevent this. They are available for purchase, but require removing the forks to install. No thanks. I took an easier route with NOJ fork guards, which are made of neoprene material that just wrap around the fork and seal with velcro. A little trimming is needed to fit and a zip tie on the bottom helps keep it on there.
Parts - NOJ fork guards [Ebay, $20]Link 1 - Link 2
NEP Throttle Lock
I saved the throttle lock off my GS500 and it fitted right onto the SV. I just had to peel back a little bit of the stock grip to make it fit. I love having a throttle lock as it really helps out on those long touring rides. Quality is good, and cost less than others like Vista Cruise/Throttlemister etc.. It needs a little modding to fit with the R6 throttle tube. A custom ring cut from a piece of pvc pipe will make it fit.
Early SVs came with subpar R/Rs which were known to get super hot and eventually fail.
Cure - Direct to battery mod, and/or new R/R from other bikes such as late model CBRs or GSX-Rs. I picked up a used CBR R/R off Ebay to replace the old one. It is pretty similar in size for an easy swap. I just needed to get longer mounting bolts to accommodate the thicker R/R, and some Posi-Lock electrical connectors. I also wired it directly to the battery. The final results are great, with the new R/R producing less heat and charging at a higher voltage. This is a definite must-do.
Parts - CBR R/R (Model FH008BA) (Ebay, $50), new bolts (Hardware store, $3), Posi-Locks (Ebay, $7)
I installed DL650 V-Strom handguards for added wind and debris protection. They bolt right on with just some minor modification like shaving some plastic in certain areas to clear the choke lever and throttle adjuster screw. I also looked at the Barkbusters Storm and PowerMadd Star handguards before finally deciding on these. In terms of looks, these would go great with the 2nd gen SVS faired versions as they would compliment the angular lines of the fairing, but I think it still looks fine on the naked if you have a windscreen to match. These do not come with a backbone so there is no real protection from drops or crashes.
I installed TechSpec Gripster tank grips for more control on the bike. I like being able to grip the tank with my legs, taking weight off my arms, so I have more precise throttle/steering control. This is a nice well-made product which is easy to install and looks pretty durable. I also looked at StompGrip which I've read is more tread aggressive and better for track use, whereas the TechSpec is more street-friendly.
Parts - TechSpec Gripster Snake Skin tank grip (SVRider group buy, $43 shipped).
Fender Extender
The front fender is minimally short which may look good, but does little to prevent dirt, debris and water from collecting in the front engine area. The main issue is that the front cylinder is forward facing and commonly drowned by water spray from the front tire. To prevent this, I added a fender extender which adds about 5 inches to the back of the fender. This, in addition to keeping the front cylinder drain hole clean and adding some sealant to the spark plug boot, will greatly reduce the chances of water getting to the front cylinder. The kit comes with a few small strips of double-side tape and 4 self-tapping screws. I did not want to put holes into the fender, so I just used a good coverage of heavy-duty mounting tape instead. You can also use plastic glue or epoxy.
I decided to do a passenger seat-mounted top case mod after reading about it on the forums. It seemed like a very convenient storage solution. Simply mount to a spare passenger seat to create storage for running errands around town, or even on long touring trips, then easily switch back to stock with the original seat. I was about to purchase the commonly used JC Whitney case to do my project when I stumbled across another one on Ebay. The size is equivalent to the JC Whitney medium case and the seller happened to be in my area, so I saved on shipping by doing a local pickup. The quality is pretty good for a generic case, probably on par with the JC Whitney one and the blue is almost a perfect match which is an added plus. After a few uses so far, I must say, I love it. I love the added convenience and security. The mounting feels solid as well. Mounting and dismounting the bike is a bit different now because you can't just swing the leg over the back. You have to kinda just kick over the seat, but you get use to it.
Parts - Trunk (Ebay, new $29), Spare seat (Ebay, $38). Various hardware, $8
I made a do-it-yourself radiator guard, which basically consist of using a simple sheet of aluminum mesh rain gutter guard to shield the radiator from rocks and whatnot. A quick search reveals most radiator guards as fairly pricey, sold anywhere from $50 and up in stores, so this diy guard is just perfect for me at under 10 bucks. As mentioned in SVR, Home Depot has strips of 6"x36" aluminum rain gutter guards that work great. I cut mine to about 16 1/4" with tin snips, formed it around the radiator, cut out the mounting holes, and then made an SV logo out of painter's tape which I taped on prior to spraying it with high temp paint.
Parts - Rain gutter guard (Home Depot, $2.80), High heat spray paint (Home Depot, $5.99)
R6 Throttle Tube
Replacing the stock throttle tube with one from a Yamaha R6 will allow for a shorter throw or rotation of the wrist. Some people find this more comfortable. This is a direct swap on the 1st gen naked SV, and is a great mod at only around $10. Alternative method here.
Parts - Yamaha R6 Throttle Assembly (Part #5SL-26240-01-00, Boats.net, $10)
Adjustable levers
I've been considering getting some aftermarket shorty adjustable levers for sometime now. Ones from Pazzo, CRG, ASV etc.. are very pricey at almost $200. So being the cheapskate I am, I purchased a set of the CRG knock-offs from China that have been circulating around Ebay. I got them at a great price, $48 a pair. Fit and finish are surprisingly good. Install is very straightforward. The only problem I had was a clearance issue with my DL650 hand guard on the clutch side. I had to flip the lever adjuster to the bottom and cut away some of the hand guard material to make it fit. I've heard about excessive play and bad anodizing issues from others. I do notice some play, but no more than the stock ones. The red anodizing looks just fine now, but who knows, it may fade down the road. All in all, I am satisfied with the purchase.
Parts - Brake (F-14) and Clutch (S-650) levers. [Ebay (seller helmet_hk), $48]
The stock bars are very upright and therefore very comfy, but I think I want to try something a little lower for a sportier feel. Drag bars from Bikemaster are a popular choice because they are very inexpensive. I had these on my GS; great for the twisties, but a tad low for my taste overall. Suburban Machinery bars look very nice, but are pricey. After nailing it down to the Coerce Hyper Competition Lows or LSL Street bars, I purchased the Coerce. The specs are 27" width/ 1.1" rise/4 degree sweep, as opposed to the stock spec of 26"/2.5"/7.5. Overall, I'm happy with the purchase. The new bar puts me a little lower and a little more forward for that sportier but still comfy position I was looking for. Install was easy, I just needed to drill the new holes for the controls and modify the stock bar-ends as the new bars are thicker inside. I just shaved down the rubber inserts to 14mm and filed down the flanges on the nuts.
Parts - Coerce Hyper Competition Low (Maxmcdirect.com, $80 shipped)
Finally got around to changing the spark plugs. The manual says to inspect them every 4,000 miles/ 6 months and replace every 7,500 miles/ 12 months. Last time I checked them was about 2 years ago. Surprisingly, the old ones were still in good condition and still gapped within spec, just a little dirty. This is a fairly easy procedure, with the front plug being a little harder to get to because of the radiator. Just need to tilt it up a little and it's good. The standard plugs are NGK CR8E and gap is 0.7-0.8mm.
While I was changing the spark plugs, I decided to do a compression check. I already had a Harbor Freight Compression Tester for my car, so all I needed was an M10 adapter to fit the plug hole. Compression tests are good because they can give you an indication to internal problems. Low compression can indicate worn piston rings or bad cylinder walls, bad valve seating, bad head gasket etc.. Standard is 213 psi, limit is 156 psi and total difference is 28 psi. My readings came out to be 180 psi on both cylinders, which is acceptable, I think, since I didn't really have the bike fully warmed up. It's certainly not enough for me to go digging around the engine right now. I'll test it again after 5k miles when it is time to check the valves.
I picked up a sales ad from a local auto parts store and saw they had coolant on sale, so I decide to finally change my coolant. The manual suggests replacing the coolant every 2 years. I was way overdue. It was an easy job, similar to changing oil: out with old, in with new. The important thing to remember is to bleed properly, so no air bubbles are left. This often-ignored maintenance procedure is important because as the coolant ages, it looses its ability to resist boiling, freezing and corrosion.
Parts - Peak 50/50 coolant (O'Reilly Auto Parts, $8)
I'm currently using Emgo Microglass oil filters that I got on sale at Bikebandit. I still have a few left, but when I run out I might try some alternative oil filters. Some say filters made for autos are better and cheaper, but the thread pitch is different, so an adapter is needed.
In order to increase visibility, I installed a brake light flasher and led tail light bulbs. The flasher is made and sold by SVR member "Soliton" and the led bulbs are generic bulbs available for purchase on Ebay. I got them both in a special package deal from Soliton. The bulbs, being 1157 size, are a direct swap in, and the small flasher unit plugs right in between the OEM connectors. The high power led bulbs are definitely brighter when viewed head-on, but because of the directional design, side view is only marginally brighter. The flasher, flashing 7 times then 3 times after that with 3 second pauses is very eye grabbing. I am pleased with this mod.
Parts - Cree Q5 Led 1157 bulbs and Flasher Unit (SVR member "Soliton", $50)
According to the service manual, the stock rubber brake lines should be replaced every 4 years. Since the brake lines on my bike look like they have never been touched, I should definitely replace them. Stainless steel brake lines are a common upgrade because they expand less, providing a better feel at the levers, and not to mention they look trick. There are many options here like Galfer/ HEL/ Spiegler to name a few. I'm currently looking into G & J Aircraft and Competition, who, as mentioned in the forums, can make custom lines at a great deal cheaper. But because they don't really sell ready-made bike-specific kits, you need to know exactly what you need in terms of lengths and banjo fittings.
I'll probably want a more comfortable seat for the longer trips. Corbin and Sargent seats have good reviews, but are expensive at around $250. An inexpensive option I'm looking at is the Spencer motorcycle seat mod.
I'm always looking to improve my visibility out there, and a way to do that is with the DRL mod, which basically involves utilizing the existing turn signals to double as always-on marker lights.
SVs have damping-rod forks that are very limited in tuning and control. Adding cartridge emulators will allow for more controlled damping and tunability like the newer cartridge forks. The Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators are expensive at about $150. Debrix Cycles has some generic emulators, about $30, that many on SVR have used with success. These will drop right into gen 1 forks. The original damper rod will have to be modified by drilling/ plugging some holes.
I've been reading about these lightweight A123 cell battery packs. I'll probably get one when my old battery dies which might be pretty soon. For a street SV, an 8-cell is recommended. Pros include lightweight, compactness, slow discharge, and longer life. I am currently leaning towards the Moty Design or Shorai unit for around $160.
A way to get more positive shifts and eliminate false neutrals is up upgrade the stock shift star. Factory Pro sells one for about $200. A cheaper alternative is to use the oem shift star and parts from the 2005+ SV which are beefier like the Factory Pro kit, but at a substantial savings.
The factory headlight wiring isn't very good at providing full voltage to the bulbs, which is why it looks dim and yellow. By wiring directly to the battery with a custom wire harness with relays, you will increase the brightness of the headlights and make them more stable as well. The wire harness can be made if you know what you're doing, or simply bought pre-made. About $50 @ Eastern Beaver.